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Mozambique - Maputo

Maputo

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The sprawling capital of Mozambique was, under Portuguese influence in the 18th century, one of the most beautiful and fashionable cities on the continent, with a sophisticated multi-national atmosphere, elegant buildings and wide shaded avenues.

The 17-year civil war during the 1970s and 80s had a devastating affect on Maputo, reducing the proud city to a state of grubby disrepair, with thousands of immigrants taking over from where the wealthy socialites left off. The city has worked hard to recreate some of its former grandeur, with the five-star Polana Hotel once again abuzz with the gossip of the rich and famous and restaurants serving up their famous peri-peri prawns. Today the city is a lively mix of people, with lots of markets and street vendors, a vibey café culture, and a relaxed pace of life.

Maputo, or Lourenzo Marques as it was known before independence, became the capital of Mozambique in 1898 and the city became established as a major trade and industry centre, boasting the country's most important harbour. Today the economy of the city still relies heavily on the sea, and its port has significant potential for international trading, being the closest deepwater port in southern Africa to the Asian markets. Most visitors to Maputo will pass through the harbour on the way to Inhaca Island situated just off the coast, a popular spot for diving and snorkelling.

Maputo is also the gateway to many splendid beaches and resorts to the north and south of the city, as well as the Maputo Elephant Reserve, which has growing numbers of game and beautiful coastal areas. Ponta de Ouro is the southernmost resort on the Mozambique coast, famed for its white sand beaches and as one of the best diving locations with rich coral reefs and a variety of marine life. To the north of Maputo are the beautiful inland lakes at Bilene and the famous beaches of Xai-Xai, popular tourist destinations that offer fishing, water sports and plenty of relaxation in beautiful surrounds.

Attractions

Central Railway Station

Designed by Gustave Eiffel in 1910, the railway station is considered to be one of the most beautiful in the world, with marble pillars, wrought iron work and a large central dome. The grand building is one of Maputo's most impressive structures, and is well worth a visit, even if not arriving or departing by train.

Address: Praca dos Trabalhadores

Central Market

The Central Market spills out of the shabby yet beautiful building in which it is housed, and is a hub of activity selling all kinds of goods, from handicrafts, basketware and carvings, to fruit and vegetables, a variety of seafood and many household items needed for everyday use. The market is a haven for pickpockets and thieves, though, and visitors should ensure that all valuables are concealed from view.

Address: Av. 25 de Setembro

Polana Hotel

The grand dame of Maputo, Hotel Polana is one of the city's most desirable addresses, overlooking the bay. The historic hotel is a majestic building, evoking the style and sophistication of colonial times, with its gardens, Victorian lift and five-star luxury. A sunset drink in one of its cocktail bars is a must for passing visitors not tempted to splash out on an extravagant stay.

Address: Av. Julius Nyerere

Museum of the Revolution

The museum relates the fascinating history of the revolution in Mozambique, detailing the violent struggle against Portuguese colonialism. Mozambique gained independence in 1975, and various maps, photographs and displays of weapons chronicle the fight. All captions and text are in Portuguese.

Address: Av 24 Julho
Opening time: Monday to Friday (except Wednesday) 9am to 12pm and 2pm to 6pm; Saturday 2pm to 6pm; Sunday 9am to 12pm and 3pm to 6pm

Excursions

Inhaca Island

Situated almost 25 miles (40km) off the coast of Maputo, Inhaca Island is a popular destination boasting beautiful beaches, some of the Mozambique Channel's best coral reefs, a historic lighthouse, marine biology museum and large areas of protected forest. Easily accessible from the capital, it is a favourite with snorkellers and divers who usually head for the reefs at Santa Maria and off the lighthouse, or the surrounding sunken wrecks. The Santa Maria reef has a strong drift current that runs parallel to the shore and is fantastic for snorkelling, while the Wall is a rocky ledge that drops 66ft (20m) to the bottom and harbours numerous caves and ledges filled with a variety of marine life. Game fishing is also popular. Portuguese Island is a deserted island just northwest of Inhaca across a narrow strait, which also has magnificent beaches and a lagoon.

Transport: The island is easily accessible from Maputo by a daily ferry service, or a 10-minute flight

Ponta d'Ouro

Ponta d'Ouro is a popular destination for divers and surfers, 75miles (120km) south of Maputo along a sandy road. 'Surf's up' in Ponta d'Ouro, home to one of the most perfect waves in the world, and swimming with dolphins is not to be missed either; it can be a life changing experience. There are shebeen (local pub) tours, exploring about seven rustic shebeens along a stretch of rough road. Tipo Tinto Rum is a locally produced and tastes slightly of Vanilla; it goes well with pineapple or raspberry juice, which is available from the local market. The locals sell carvings in all shapes and sizes, mostly in hard wood. Although the shells on offer are beautiful, they were probably stolen off a reef and should therefore be avoided.

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