Seychelles: an enchanting paradise

Whether you're a nature lover or just in love, the Seychelles is bound to enchant. Gillian Scoble from Getaway Magazine checked out a selection of places to stay.

Although I’m told countless families, singles and friends visit Seychelles each year, my flight was full of couples. Two-by-two, we walked into Air Seychelles’ jet as if it were a modern-day Noah’s Ark taking us from a world flooded with bad news to a place of endless romance and paradisiacal beaches.

For most of us, the word Seychelles conjures up images of sea, shells and seduction. And there are Although I’m told often reserved smiles about the highly suggestive flowers and nuts of Praslin’s endemic palm tree, the coco de mer, found in the Vallée de Mai World Heritage Site.

‘What can I say, it’s an aphrodisiac island,’ laughed our tour guide, Janet Venus, from Creole Travel Services. Besides being good company, she was an expert at spotting wildlife – from black parrots, tree frogs and Seychelles palm spiders in Vallée de Mai to a pair of black paradise flycatchers, critically endangered birds endemic to La Digue.

The Noah’s Ark theme is evident in the flora and fauna and can be explained in geological terms. Seychelles is made up of 115 granite, coral and sand islands scattered in a far- flung part of the Indian Ocean. Since they detached from other land masses before modern mammals evolved, there were no naturally occurring land mammals. This isolation allowed a unique biodiversity to develop.

The arrival of human settlers in 1770 disrupted some of the vulnerable species, causing the near-disappearance of giant tortoises, chestnut-flanked white eyes, Seychelles parakeets and salt-water crocodiles. However, conservation efforts have saved many from extinction. There are some 80 endemic species of flora and 2 000 types of endemic invertebrates.

Seychelles hosts some of the largest sea-bird colonies in the world. Species include the sooty and fairy tern, white-tailed tropic bird, frigate bird, Audubon’s shearwater and lesser noddy.

The marine life can be spectacular too, especially near the coral islands. More than 1 000 species of fish have been recorded, thanks to conservation efforts. Although coral bleaching damaged reefs in 1998, some are showing signs of recovery. Turtle populations are improving too.

With so much natural beauty to enjoy on a variety of islands, not to mention the dazzling white sand beaches, it’s little wonder visitors return again and again – with off - spring, friends and family.

Cousine Island Resort, Cousine

I arrived in this paradise white-faced with the kind of terror you can only feel out on a wild sea, my soaked clothes and shoes dripping with salt water. It had been a rough sea crossing in a teacup of a boat. If you go during the windy months, I’d suggest a helicopter transfer.

Cousine Island was bought in 1992 by a South African businessman with conservation in mind. Since then, it’s won eco-awards and received acknowledgement from the scientific community. In 2000, four exclusive guest villas were built to support the many projects pursued by the dedicated environmental team.

They rigorously monitor the hawksbill and green turtles which come ashore to nest in season and ensure the safety of their eggs. They’ve translocated endangered Seychelles magpie robins and white eyes to Cousine, which now has six endemic land bird species which are studied to ensure their survival and eight breeding sea species, as well as a variety of migrant birds.

Cousine is also home to 20 giant Aldabra tortoises, which roam freely on the island. Many were rescued from captivity on other islands. Thanks to planting indigenous flora and eradication of alien species, the 25-hectare island now has 95 per cent endemic plants.

You get a sense the island is thriving. Birds that have known no predators allow photographs at close range, tortoises approach for a neck rub and skinks and geckos think they’re part of your tea party. Climb up the granite rocks with ecologists Kevin and San-Marie Jolliff e in the late afternoon and you’ll see skies full of birds making their way home.

Walk on the long white strip of beach at sunrise or sunset and you’re likely to have it all to yourself – except for the birds, crabs and other creatures. In fact, you can book the whole island for yourself if you wish. Many Brits do. Take note, however, that a night in one of the French colonial-style villas on Cousine costs the same as a night at a top lodge in Sabi Sands (from R7 000 a person). You can just imagine the luxury and, with only four villas, the levels of personalised service on off er.

Chef Adriaan van Niekerk whips up magical concoctions served in the restaurant, at your villa or on the beach. The food is tailored, where possible, to your dietary requirements. And in the spa, Balinese therapist Nengah Sari Ani performs miracles on knotted backs.

Cousine adheres to environmentally friendly practices in terms of water, power, energy and waste management. To further protect the island’s ecology, visitors and staff are kept to a minimum.

Although most of us would have to win the Lotto to stay on Cousine, for those who can afford it, it must be rewarding knowing your money is going into a worthy conservation project in Seychelles.

And you’ll certainly have unique memories to take home with you. Just be sure to fly in.

Hilton Northolme Hotel, Mahé Play out your James Bond fantasies here. The Northolme Hotel and Spa is not only rumoured to be where Ian Fleming found inspiration for the plot of For Your Eyes Only, but there’s a specially themed suite for fans to enjoy a bit of nostalgic fun.

There is little doubt 007 would feel satisfied at this hotel, which has been completely rebuilt and staffed to exceed expectations. If you’re after a truly five-star hotel still affordable for South Africans that offers excellence in service, cuisine and accommodation, this is it. I don’t say that lightly and certainly didn’t leave feeling light after tucking into their delectable buffets.

Many extras are thrown in, so Bond won’t have to haggle over expense account indulgences with M. There’s Champagne on arrival and at breakfast, guided snorkelling excursions, Internet usage, newspapers and high teas.

More importantly, the 40 spacious wooden villas fulfi l requirements for romantic liaisons. They’re nestled in hillside foliage overlooking sandy coves with North and Silhouette Islands in the distance. The spa bath and shower are large enough for two and are stocked with aromatic Crabtree and Evelyn toiletries. There are coffee machines, bar fridges, home theatre centres and private balconies with couple’s day beds and sea views.

If things get tense in the undercover world, there’s a spa which has one of the best ocean settings I’ve encountered. You can see, smell and hear the surf crashing on the rocks metres from your massage plinth. Dual treatments are on offer too.

One word of caution: don’t let cannon balls fall on you. No, this has nothing to do with secret service operatives or the fact that the original Northolme was built between world wars. I’m referring to the spherical fruits from a rare, strange and beautiful tree, called the cannonball tree (Couroupita guianensis) found along one of the hotel paths.

It’s one of only two such trees found in Seychelles. Take a look, you’ll see hard fruits and fragrant fl owers pushing right out of the thick bark. Even well-heeled Bond would be surprised to spy that.

Hotel L’Archipel, Praslin

Intimate and romantic, L’Archipel has all the ingredients for a relaxing holiday. There are just 30 chalets, mostly dotted across the hillside, with large verandas to take in the sea views. Some chalets are located under the coconut palms within paces of the beach – a tantalising strip of fl our-like sand leading to calm waters for a dip. Sandwiched between granite boulders, guests have this beach to themselves.

It’s a great place to dream, or just be. You could easily spend an afternoon sipping SeyBrews, the local beer, as you contemplate life or nothing at all. The staff is there when you need them but never unwanted in your space. It’s blissful.

The main part of the hotel has an elegant French-Creole plantation theme. In the upstairs restaurant, shuttered windows open out offering sea views and balmy breezes. The table d’hôte dinner menu was superb.

L’Archipel is located on a private beach, Anse Gouvernement, at the end of the Côte d’Or. There are many gorgeous beaches along this coast, including Anse Lazio. The hotel also offers snorkelling, canoeing, windsurfing, massages, a games room and a large swimming pool.

Cerf Island Marine Park Resort, Cerf

I had hoped to track down Wilbur Smith, whom I heard had a house on Cerf Island. But alas, the author sold it a year or so ago. I could see why he loved living on this little island, which is not more than one kilometre wide or long. It’s jungly, has pretty beaches, calm shallow waters and is close to the pristine snorkelling sites of Sainte Anne Marine National Park. You feel far away, yet you’re a short and easy boat trip from Mahé.

A long jetty leads to Cerf Island Resort with its atmospheric thatched lodge and rim-flow pool overlooking a private beach. The 12 separate wooden villas meander up the hillside. The 1756 restaurant, named for the date Cerf was discovered, is built around granite boulders and boasts 180- degree ocean views. There’s a minispa with steam room and an outdoor spa bath under the trees.

The hideaway and hillside villas have romantic open-air bathrooms with spacious outdoor showers and baths for two. They have generous balconies with day beds and rooms are equipped with all the luxuries, including mini bars and entertainment centres.

There are kayaks and pedalos to navigate round the island to various snorkelling spots, though we found plenty of colourful fi sh in the water right in front of the lodge. Picnic hampers, cruises in glass-bottom boats and visits to neighbouring islands can be arranged.